September 2011

Proposed by David Brooke

BACKGROUND

THE INDUSTRY IS CHANGING QUICKLY

The industry is changing rapidly to respond to the ever increasing demand for individualised products. Consumer’s don’t just want a car they want to choose from different steering wheels, gear stick knobs, paint colours and decals. They don’t just want a pair of golf shoes, they want their initials on them and pink stitching. And, they don’t just want a suit, they want to be able to choose the lining, the button hole stitching and the cut.

No longer is consumer demand for tailored suits associated with those with money. Global sourcing now means that tailored clothes are cheaper than ever before and therefore accessible to a far great audience.

These two trends, among others, have seen a rapid increase in the number of companies trying to meet this demand. Initially it was external market tailors coming to the UK to sell their service e.g. Raja Fashion. Then companies like mine set up to bring a local market infrastructure to the global sourcing model. More recently, many of the high street menswear stores have started to offer a tailored solution.

I see these changes as inevitable and a potentially strong stimulus to the industry. These new tailoring business are helping to grow the industry and attract new consumers who might otherwise not have had the experience of an individually designed garment. I also believe that these new consumers are actually at the start of a journey that could take them to the door of the finest tailors in the country. It is therefore in everyone’s interest to nurture them through this journey and make sure that they have the best possible experience at every stage.

RAPID GROWTH BRINGS BOTH OPPORTUNITIES AND CHALLENGES

This period of rapid growth has brought with it a number of clear challenges that I believe are affecting the perception of the industry both from our peers in other markets but more importantly by our consumers in this market. I also believe that it is causing divides within the industry.

I have debated this idea on my Linkin Group ‘Bespoke Tailors’ over the past 6 months. The contributions have been excellent and I believe represent a true picture of the challenges that we face. The following list is not definitive but identifies a number of key issues highlighted in discussion so far.

1. Misuse of the terms bespoke and made-to-measure.

The definition of these terms is not agreed upon across the industry and needs to be if we are going to build a credible relationship with our consumers. If we are not clear, how can our customers be.

2. Lack of clarity with regards to the origin of a product.

People are not being clear about where their product is being made. This only becomes an issue when people mislead clients. Evidence is readily available on the internet of where this is happening. Either it is an English made suit or it isn’t.

3. Misuse of the Savile Row brand

People are using the terms Savile Row, or Savile Row Style which in itself is stealing brand equity and confusing the consumer. Holding a fitting in a Savile Row office doesn’t make you a Savile Row company or located in Savile Row.

4. Lack of industry/consumer data.

Simple questions that will help us understand our business remain unanswered. For example, is the market for tailored clothing growing? Which category is growing the quickest? What kind of person is buying within each category? How much do they earn? What is their job? In this day and age not knowing this is quite frankly unbelievable. If I grow my business by 20% but the market grows by 40% then I might not be quite as happy about it!

I have just carried out some research with the University of Hertfordshire which showed that you are twice as likely to be perceived as being successful, confident and wealthy within 3 seconds of meeting someone if you are wearing a tailored suit over an off the peg! Interesting? Useful information when talking to customers?.....It’s just the tip of the iceberg.

5. No clear career strategy to develop new blood.

One thing that I am clear about is that people are very interested in our industry. I am asked all the time about how people should get in to it. The answer to this question however is not readily available. Where are the training courses? Which tailors take on apprentices? Where are the case studies and success stories? What National vacancies are there at this moment in time?

6. Not building on best practice of Savile Row Bespoke.

The SRB is a good example of best practice that we should build upon. Their expertise and knowledge can help bring the industry as a whole together but I am convinced that this flow of information can be two way.

7. No central communication platform to discuss issues and opportunities.

Apart from my forum on Linkedin there is no other platform where people within the industry can share best practice, ask questions and find solutions to problems. The Linkedin forum is however constrained by the parameters of Linkedin and could be far better if set up externally.

8. No central directory for those within the industry

Many of the questions asked on the Linkedin forum relate to product or services sourcing. There is no directory that enables people to easily find suppliers. This also goes from a consumer standpoint as well.

9. Lack of group buying opportunities

There may be a possibility of group buying initiatives if we become more unified as an industry. This could help reduce costs and increase profits.

10. No medium to longer term strategy for the industry

So where do we want to be in 10 years time? How do we want people in other markets to perceive the UK...... The training capital of the world for tailoring maybe? What role can the government play in the industry? What role could a UK regulation body play in raising standards in the industry both in the UK and in other markets?

CONCLUSION

The industry has evolved quickly over the last 10 years. Consumers are unclear on the products that are being offered, and in some cases are being misled. The industry as a whole lacks direction and unification. This is having a detrimental impact on the industry’s credibility from a consumer perspective but is also creating factions within the industry (between ‘old’ and ‘new’).

We have a choice:

Either continue as we are...as individuals, with no cohesive strategy or support, and criticising but not doing anything about, those who are letting our industry down.

Or, we get proactive and make some clear changes that create a road map to make the UK tailoring industry the blue print for other markets.

PROPOSAL – ESTABLISH A REGULATORY BODY.

This industry requires regulating.

Experience has shown that it is not possible to make people do something they don’t want to do (example being the legal debate surrounding the use of the word bespoke). So a new approach is required. One that invites people who want to work within a set of rules to join rather than tells them.

By joining the regulatory body they will gain many benefits not least that they will be able to display the regulatory seal on their marketing and PR which, over time, will become an instant signal of trust in the consumers eyes.

They will have access to discussion forums, market data, consumer insight, buying groups, supplier directories, networking events, training and apprenticeship schemes, and extensive PR programs that build the credibility of those that carry the Regulatory Body’s seal. There might even be special prices with local market suppliers.

In return, they will have to trade within the Regulatory Body’s guidelines. This would include:

1. Always describing their products accurately and honestly against the agreed definitions of bespoke and made-to-measure.

2. Always being clear on the country of origin.

3. Not using the term Savile Row unless they actually operate a premises in the location or have done in the past (definitions needs agreeing).

4. Agreement to contribute sales and consumer data when required to build market insight.

5. To contribute and buy into a wider strategy for the industry with clear Visions and Objectives.

This is not a definitive list.

THIS PROPOSAL NEEDS TO BE PROPERLY EVALUATED

Initial feedback about this idea has been extremely positive however the concept needs to be shown to more key stakeholders particularly in Savile Row and the SRB.

A task force needs to be established to evaluate the commercial viability of the idea. Ultimately we need to understand the value of the concept. What would people be prepared to pay for membership and is this enough to cover the costs? What resource is required? Will this make the industry better vs other ideas and vs the time and energy it will take to establish. What should the scope of the organisation be.....UK, European, Global?

Critically we need access to someone with experience of setting up or managing a regulatory body in order to understand ‘the work’.

NEXT STEPS

If you are reading this then you have been recommended as someone who can add value to this process and I would therefore value your input/comments/criticisms.

Thank you for taking the time to read this and please do not hesitate to contact me to discuss at any time.

CONTACT DETAILS

David Brooke

Mathieson & Brooke Tailors Ltd

m. 07962 141932

e. info@mandbt.co.uk

ABOUT DAVID BROOKE

After graduating in Psychology I worked for Nestle UK for 7 years before leaving my role as Global Account Director to set up a tailoring business.

Having worked in the industry for almost 7 years these are my thoughts on how we can make the global industry stronger.